Context. Near-infrared high-resolution échelle spectrographs unlock access to fundamental properties of exoplanets, from their atmospheric escape and composition to their orbital architecture, which can all be studied simultaneously from transit observations. Aims. We present the first results of the newly commissioned ESO near-infrared spectrograph, Near-InfraRed Planet Searcher (NIRPS), from three transits of the well-studied warm Saturn WASP-69b. Our goals are to measure the orbital architecture of the planet through the Rossiter-McLaughlin (RM) effect and its atmospheric escape through the 1083 nm helium triplet. Methods. We used the RM Revolutions technique to better constrain the orbital architecture of the system. We extracted the high-resolution helium absorption profile to study its spectral shape and temporal variations. Then, we made 3D simulations from the EVE code to fit the helium absorption time series. Results. We measure a slightly misaligned orbit for WASP-69 b (3D spin-orbit angle of 28.7‑5.3+6.1 ∘). We confirm the detection of helium with an average excess absorption of 3.17±0.05% (maximum of 4.02%). The helium absorption is spectrally and temporally resolved, extends to high altitudes and has a strong velocity shift up to ‑29.5±2.5 km s‑1 50 minutes after egress. The signature cannot be explained by a thermosphere alone and thus requires 3D modeling of the thermosphere and exosphere. EVE simulations put constraints on the mass loss of 2.25 · 1011 g s‑1 and hint at reactive chemistry within the cometary-like tail and interaction with the stellar winds that allow the metastable helium to survive longer than expected. Conclusions. Our results suggest that WASP-69 b is going through a transformative phase of its history by losing mass while evolving on a misaligned orbit, similar to a growing number of Neptunian worlds. This work shows how combining multiple observational tracers such as orbital architecture, atmospheric escape, and composition is critical to understand exoplanet demographics and their formation and evolution. We demonstrate that NIRPS in the near-infrared can reach precisions similar to HARPS in the optical for RM studies, and the high data quality of NIRPS leads to unprecedented atmospheric characterization. Therefore, the addition of NIRPS to HARPS on the ESO 3.6 m makes it the driving force of such new studies. The high stability of NIRPS combined with the large Guaranteed Time Observation (GTO) available for its consortium enables in-depth studies of exoplanets as well as large population surveys.